There are many USB ZigBee and zwave adapters that work well with home assistant

Seems like nextcloud is the weak link, can you access them another way? Through a network share?

Have you looked at the pinecil? Its cheap and has very good reviews. The hakko fx-888d is a classic option for a reason too. If you’re doing SMD work, consider getting a hot air station over an expensive soldering station

Buy the 5 dollariest arduino?

Also worth noting that pfsense was ready and intending to knowingly ship a broken and insecure wireguard integration

Yup that’s exactly correct. I will say one of the benefits of the AC finity is the alarm. If the temp gets too high it beeps to let you know

https://acinfinity.com/closet-room-fan-systems/

They have a lot of products, including other fans and thermostats. I’ve had their media cabinet fans running 24/7 for 4-5 years now with no problems. Highly recommend it.

Otherwise you could use something like this and a standard 12v power adapter https://www.tindie.com/products/mmm999/dc-12v-four-wire-thermostat-pwm-pc-cpu-fan/

Maybe the most impactful, easiest, and most expensive thing is to get your information off of the internet. There are a few services that do this like incogni but I’d recommend kanary. The gist is they have a list of known data brokers and they send out requests to them, on your behalf, to remove your information from their services.

You’ve gotten a lot of good answers, so I’m going to do some out of the box thinking - maybe it will spark a few ideas.

Goal:

• self hosted server on boat

Issues:

• size
• power
• corrosion

So if I were going to do this myself, I’d start with a pelican or other similar watertight container. We don’t want the equipment getting wet, and we don’t want it exposed to the salty air.

I’d probably pick a usff computer, like a dell 9020 or maybe a framework motherboard. To get the storage, I’d get one of these to add multiple sata ports to the computer. Then its a matter of getting a bunch of ssds and powering them. I think the 12v goal is going to be too restrictive, most laptops need 19v to charge, so I’d just bite the bullet and get an inverter. If you’re really tight on power you could go with a pi, but the framework motherboard/usff both use mobile processors, and shouldn’t draw too much while idle.

Any wires that pass though to the case should be made through waterproof bulkheads.

Personally I’d nix the HDMI out requirement. One more port to keep track of and it complicates the self hosting. If you want it for media streaming to a TV then I’d recommend a roku and just run a jellyfin server on the computer. If you want it for server debugging I wouldn’t bother running it out of the case.

The last thing I’d do is figure out cooling. For this I’d probably create some sort of closed loop heat exchanger from the case to either the outside air or the lake/ocean itself. This could be as simple as a pump running water through two radiators, one in the case and the other outside or just dumped overboard. If you know your power usage ahead of time you might be able to get away with a peltier element, dumping the heat outside the case.

I’d probably put this all on its own power system, get a solar panel, battery, inverter, etc. It could even get topped off by the boat’s system if it needs extra juice.

Also whatever you do, I’d figure out a way to ensure you’re giving your system a clean and steady 12v.

“The cause is a new SATA specification which includes the ability to disable power to the hard disk. When you look at the SATA power connection on the back of your hard drive, there are 15 pins that make contact with your power supply. It’s the third pin that delivers a 3.3V signal that disables the drive. What we need to do is prevent that third pin from making contact with the power cable.”

Some hotswap harddrive bays use this feature, definitely more common in enterprise scenarios or in USB HDD enclosures.

I’ve always liked the ultrastar line. Used to be made by HGST and then WD bought them. I’m using specifically the HC530 14tb. The line has a long history of being very reliable enterprise drives.

I’ve bought mine from both goharddrive and serverpartsdeals. Both are reliable resellers of used storage. They’ll warranty the drives for 2 or 5 years depending on which you to with. Prices are ~$130-$150.

Be aware you might need to do the electrical tape over some of the power pins hacks depending on your setup.

Ps. One of the listings for the HC530 on goharddrive or serverpartdeals is incorrectly labels as HC520. Just pay close attention.

As far as raid goes, Raid 10 is currently very popular for its speed and drive failure tolerance. Remember, raid is not a replacement for the 3-2-1 backup rule. Raid has some fault tolerances for bad hard drives, but doesn’t protect against a failed raid card, fire, flood, robber, acts of god, etc.

You can also look into zfs and truenas if you feel inclined. Be aware that if you go with this setup, ecc ram is basically a requirement

I’ve used incogni and kanary. I’m not a fan of incogni. They have a list of data sellers and blast each one with requests to remove your data, whether or not they actually have it. Additionally I’ve been asked many times to verify information they found to see if its mine. Its not, like not even close. Same last name but the first name, age, and location are way off.

Kanary’s been much better about targeting my specific information for removal. Its more expensive but I think they do a better job overall. I’m definitely more confident in them than incogni.

Friendly reminder that Trader Joes is another Union busting shit company

https://www.msn.com/en-us/money/companies/labor-board-complaint-accuses-trader-joe-s-of-illegal-threats/ar-BB1k2kc7

I’ve been using Addy for years and it’s been great. I believe I’m on the lite plan and have never (to my knowledge) hit any limits. Definitely recommend.

There’s also a setting for minimum spacing between parts. The default is overly cautious iirc, I’d suggest lowering it and trying again, though I don’t expect it to change much

Its not as energy dense, overall battery life will be worse. The battery won’t degrade as fast overtime, so the battery will keep more total capacity over the years, as compared to a lithium ion battery that would have noticeably less battery after a few years of use.

Did you expose your router login page to the open internet? How’d they get access? Why are you chmoding anything to be 777?

Just wanted to say thanks for populating the community with content 😊