The enclosure for my SV08 arrives today. Looks like my first ABS print is decided. I was trying to figure out how to cleanly/neatly arrange a cable on the dash (from the break controller display) so it doesn’t block a couple switches and the stereo. Thanks for the design!

I’m surprised you saw that much of a speed improvement, but I guess I ran my old i3 clone somewhat fast.

My tuned/reliable profile (on Prusaslicer) on the Ender 3v2 was 40-60 mm/s and acceleration 200 mm/s^2. The stock profile (on Orca) for the SV08 is 200-300 mm/s and acceleration of 20000 mm/s^2. That’s probably why such a dramatic speed increase.

Were you homing z with the bed cold? If homing z involves touching the build plate, I could see this.

The auto z-offset on the SV08 heats the bed to 65, then does a QGL, followed by cleaning the nozzle, then the z-offset calibration (using the inductive probe on both the bed and the z-offset probe), followed by a bed mesh, then a test print. Most of what I’ve read is that the heater is not the most efficient at heating the bed up completely. That’s why everyone (Sovol included) recommend heat soaking for the initial z-offset. After I did that, I’ve had no problems with first layers.

I have an Ender 3V2 that I converted to direct drive with linear rails and CR Touch, and was pretty happy with the reliability of it. I’ve been wanting to build a Voron forever, but the amount of hours to build/cost of a kit (I can’t print ABS) was a barrier to entry.

I just picked up a Sovol SV08, which is a derivative of the Voron 2.4 (there are some proprietary parts on it, but $579 vs. $1000-1200 for a kit, I’m OK with that). I’m pretty happy with it thus far, although it did require some initial tinkering. Here are the highlights:

• Core XY
• Enclosure Ready
• Fast (printed something that took 26 hours on the Ender, and it took less than 4 on the SV08).
• Finicky for the initial z-offset. Heat soak the bed for 30 min at 65 degrees, then run the automatic z-offset.
• Got super frustrated why I couldn’t figure out the inconsistent extrusion/shitty prints. Tightened the tension screw on the extruder. Problem solved (rookie move).

Time will tell if it’s a long term printer, or more of a tinkerer. However, they open sourced it all - and there’s already a ton of mods. Printing the housing for the BTT 5" touchscreen, saving me $50 over buying a touchscreen from Sovol. It might be worth a look.

Family and some friends from back in my days in the military. Those guys are who I keep an eye on, because they don’t use it as frequently as my family.

I use it to track users use/watch habits, to restrict their access if need be. Every user with a password that may or may not be strong is a weak point in my network security.

I flashed it to a thumb drive and booted into the live environment.

If the unit you buy has an IR remote, you could look into Sensibo as an add-on. I just installed a Mr. Cool mini split, and set up a Sensibo Air at the same time. The Sensibo integration is two parts - Homekit and API from their cloud service. Most of my automations use only the Homekit integration. Sensibo’s website will also let you check to see if the AC unit you’re thinking of works with Sensibo.

It used to be. It was called selective availability, where the DoD could dial up/down the accuracy for commercial receivers. However, it was discontinued in 2000.